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Costume History
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Early Mannerist and Renaissance


Ca. 1520 - 1560

Russell, Douglas Costume History and Style; chapter 12, pp. 196-212

Glossary:

Barbe or barbette: Pleated neck and shoulder covering worn with a hood (or beguin) by widows until the time of Catherine de Medici, when it was replaced by a wired-out hood, dipping low over the forehead or carried out into a beak.  For a white mourning of a young queen, a veiled hood over a wired cap and a pleated barbe under the chin, such as we associate with Mary of Scotland, was worn.

Basquine: Restraining fitted under bodices of heavy material from which the term basque comes.  Used in the late sixteenth century.

Buckram: A coarse open weave of linen or cotton sized with glue and used as early as the sixteenth century as a stiffening for parts of dress.  The name comes form the floor coverings use under fine rung in Bukhara.

Cappa magna: the long, trailing, luxurious cloak-vestment worn by ecclesiastics on ceremonial occasions.  Usually of watered silk, hooded in ermine; worn in red by cardinals, violet by bishops.

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