15 seconds (Justin Dugie)
The Rules of Anti-Gravity
Any attempt to cheat will not be tolerated. Outdoor Adventure reserves the right to disqualify any participants who violate the rules below.
- Climbing Competition:
Each Anti-Gravity competition day during operating hours students and members of the Campus Recreation and Wellness Center will be eligible to participate in the climbing competition and associated events. There is no additional fee to participate in Anti-Gravity 2013.
Before climbing a participant must first sign up at the desk located near the climbing wall. Upon signing up a score card will be filled out and given to the participant. On the scorecard the participant must indicate the level of climber they are: beginner (5.0-5.8), intermediate (5.9-5.10d), advanced (5.11 and above). If a participant climbs more than one route above the indicated category then that participant will be bumped up to the next category. The participant must also fill out their name and a code name on the score card as well as indicating male or female. Once all the information has been approved by the Outdoor Adventure employee stationed at the sign up desk the participant may enter into the competition. Climbing gear will be provided if needed. In order to climb a route for points a participant must first choose a rope number then enter the score card in the pile with the corresponding number. All participants must wait outside of the fence separating the climbing area unless climbing or called by an Outdoor Adventure employee. Once called by an Outdoor Adventure employee, the participant may enter the climbing area and begin to climb. This employee will be both belayer and judge. Be sure to communicate which route you (the participant) want to attempt.
- Climbing Rules:
Climbing officially begins when the climbers hands are established on the start holds and when both feet leave the ground. Pushing off the ground to gain holds higher than the start holds is considered a "flying start" and is not permitted. Any falls or deviations from the route as announced by the judge will result in an immediate lower and an attempt will be recorded on the score card. If a participant deviates from the route and does not hear the judge announce the deviation an attempt will be recorded on the score card. The judge has final say in any disputes. If the participant climbs to the top without falling and no deviations from the route then it will be recorded as completed and initialed by the judge. One hand must be established on the final hold or top for completion to be recorded.
- Technical Infractions:
These include unintentional infractions or events that cannot be predicted or prevented. These include but are not limited to: bleeding, spinning holds, climbing on the wrong rope, broken holds, or any dangerous situations. If called on a technical the climber must come down to fix the problem and will not be charged with an attempt. The exception is a spinning hold. If the climber encounters a spinner they have the option to be lowered immediately to fix the problem or continue. If the climber chooses to continue then any further falls due to the spinning hold will be marked as an attempt.
- Post-Climbing Procedure:
After a participant is lowered to the ground they must untie and leave the climbing area promptly. Once outside of the climbing area the participant may reenter their scorecard or check out by returning the scorecard to the sign up desk.
Final results will be determined based on the top five completed climbs. The points will be totaled and announced on the final day during the awards ceremony. Any climber who completes a route during the competition will receive an Anti-Gravity t-shirt (this means climb to the top without falling!)
- Rule Amendments:
Employees and volunteers: Employees of Outdoor Adventure are allowed to participate in the competition events only when they are not scheduled to work and are off the time clock. Flash points will not be allowed for employees and route setters due to prior knowledge of the point scale, route setting, and exposure to the features of the climbing wall. Employees and volunteers who route set for the competition will not be allowed to climb routes for points that they set for the climbing competition (this applies to setting full or partial routes).
- Climbing out of Category:
Climbers are required to climb within the category specified on their scorecard. Only one climb out of category will be allowed. This climb must be only one grade out of category. For example: an intermediate climber can climb one 5.11a to count for their top five points. Any higher grades such as 5.11b will result in being bumped from intermediate and scored with the advanced climbers. Being bumped will also happen if more than one 5.11a is climbed for the intermediate category. This rule applies to the beginner category as well (only one 5.9 is allowed and 5.9+ is not allowed). The points on the routes reflect a general idea of the true grade of the climbs and will remain until Anti-Gravity is over. In the event of a tie the number of attempts will be calculated. The climber with the fewest attempts wins. If there is still a tie there will push-up competition to determine the winner. Any climber not present during a tie breaker competition will forfeit and the present climber will win. If neither climbers are present during the tie breaker the total climbing points for all routes attempted will be added to determine the winner.
Events / Challenges
*On the first competition day extra points will be awarded to participants who complete a route on the first try. This is called a flash. Employees and route setters are not eligible for flash points.
- Speed Climbing:
This special event will take place on the final day for one hour only after the regular climbing competition has concluded. Participants must sign up and attempt to climb to the top of the wall on rope one as fast as possible. Two stopwatches will begin once both feet leave the ground. Time stops when the bell at the top is rung. Simple. Good luck! (the record is held by two time local champion Justin Dugie with 15 seconds)
- Dyno Comp:
This special event will take place on the final day during operating hours for registered participants of the climbing competition. A dyno is a leap or jump while rock climbing. Specific start and finish holds will be marked and numbered so to designate the dynos for the competition. There will be two categories: Male and Female. Follow the same protocol for climbing a route at the wall (see Climbing Competition Rules). An Outdoor Adventure employee must witness and tabulate all dyno attempts. Female dyno starts will be marked differently. If a female completes a male dyno extra points will be given. The participant who completes the most dynos with the fewest attempts wins. Ties will be broken with new dynos until one climbers does not complete the dyno within two attempts.
- Pull-up challenge:
Each Anti-Gravity competition day during operating hours there will be a pull-up station near the climbing wall. In order to participate the prerequisite is climb to the top of the climbing wall as an Anti-Gravity climbing competitor (just sign up, climb to the top and get a t-shirt). There are two categories: male and female. Once the prerequisite has been met the participant has an opportunity to do the most consecutive pull-ups while being supervised by an Outdoor Adventure employee.
What is a Pull-up? First the participant must grip the bar in the designated location with palms facing away from the body. Only an open grip is allowed which means the thumb cannot wrap under the bar. No gloves are allowed. In order for a pull-up to count the participant's elbows must be fully locked out in the down position so that both arms are straight. In the up position the participants chin must touch the designated area on the bar. Any deviation from these rules will result in the pull-up not counting towards the total amount. If there is a line only one attempt is allowed then the participant must reenter the line from the back. The most pull-ups will be recorded and displayed. If you beat the number displayed then you are the new record holder. This will occur all day on every comp day. After the climbing competition has ended on the final day the pull-up station will be closed and the highest number displayed to that point is the champion. Ties will be broken by fewest attempts. All winners and prizes are announced during the awards ceremony.
- Grip Challenge:
Each Anti-Gravity competition day during operating hours there will be a 350lbs grip trainer available for participants to attempt to close. First person (male or female) to fully close the gripper (metal end touching metal end) with only one hand and an Outdoor Adventure employee witness wins a cash prize.
- Enduro-Challenge (new!):
The climber with the most total points from all successful climbs will win a special prize. This will be announced on the final day at the awards ceremony.
This is the scoring standard for the Collegiate Climbing Series (CCS) and will be implemented beginning with Anti-Gravity 2013.
- 5.6 – 600
- 5.7 – 700
- 5.8 – 800
- 5.9 – 900
- 5.10a – 1000
- 5.10b – 1025
- 5.10c – 1050
- 5.10d – 1075
- 5.11a – 1100
- 5.11b – 1125
- 5.11c – 1150
- 5.11d – 1175
- 5.12a – 1200
- 5.12b – 1225
- 5.12c – 1250
- 5.12d – 1275
- 5.13a – 1300
- 5.13b – 1325
- 5.13c – 1350
- 5.13d – 1375